Wednesday 19 November 2014

Viva Vivenda!

The pool at Vivenda dos Palhaços

When associating India with sport, cricket is probably the first one that comes to mind. Ever since my first visit in 2008 I have been desperate to return but I never expected to be going there to watch football!  

This October saw the beginning of the inaugural Indian Super League which, in a similar vein to the IPL cricket, has recruited several ex-players from around Europe in a bid to raise the popularity of the sport.  When I discovered that my footballing hero, Robert Pirès, was to be playing for FC Goa I had no hesitation in booking my flights.

Goa is one region that has been on my travel bucket list for pretty much ever and I had already earmarked  Vivenda Dos Palhaços as the place I wanted to stay should I ever get to go.  In a master stroke of happenstance, it is situated on the edge of Majorda - where FC Goa play their home matches.

With the winter settling in fans here are layering up under the replica shirts, digging out the scarves from the bottom drawer and making full use of the bobble hat that arrived in the members' pack.  I headed to India for a holiday I'll never forget.


Situated a little way down a dusty cul-de-sac, the Vivenda Dos Palhaços (Villa of Clowns - a long story, apparently!) is a charming Hindu-Portugese haçienda which has been beautifully restored by the owners, brother and sister team Charlotte and Simon Hayward.
Although described as a boutique hotel it has more of a homely feel, with delicious breakfasts served around the huge dining tables (either inside or out) and dinners to linger over, drinking Feni cocktails and listening to Simon's fascinating tales of growing up in Kolkata and his various travels around the world.


Outside dining area

WIth only eight rooms the lateness of my booking meant a bit of switching but I considered that a bonus as I got to have a good nose round them all. Each one has its own unique feature - be it the splendid outdoor bathroom of Madras, Konnagar's immense four poster bed that is so high you need a step to get in to it, or the private little courtyard attached to the back of The Chummery.


Madras bathroom

There are no airs and graces here - the bar area also serves as reception and resident pooches Kitten and Gigolo will try to supplement their diets with your lunch!  



The Lorry-Back Bar
Because VDP (I shall hereby refer to it as) is in a small village don't expect complete serenity - neighbouring cows will moo in to the night, cocks will crow at the crack of dawn and the dogs will howl at just about anything but this all adds to the experience of life in Goa. 
If you do seek a bit of peace, a ten-minute walk will take you to the beach.  It's easy to find a quiet spot away from the few beach shacks and hawkers and the sea is warm and welcoming - perfect for swimming, or in my case, bobbing around!

Majorda beach


The staff at VDP will happily try to accommodate your every need - booking taxis, recommending eateries or cooking up special meals are par for the course but they go the extra mile, even arranging my tickets to the match.

Next year I might forego my season ticket and spend the money on a return to the Super League.


All images ©KerryHussain2014